Trev wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:06 pm
Mine are shut up now until February/March, I was letting them out at the weekends just while I clean them out, but having lost 2 in 2 weeks they are now locked in.
I'm planning on splitting them up this year but will probably leave that until I've had my vet inspection in December. They will be paired up mid to late February, I don't want youngsters flying out much before April to limit the risk of losses to the Sparrow Hawk, my old birds will start going out again once they are paired up. It does mean that they are unlikely to be fully fit for the early races but I'll use those races to get them fit for the longer ones, which are the ones I'm really interested in.
In answer to your other question Dave, if it wasn't for the bloody hawk they would be on an open loft all through the winter too, whatever the weather.
I’m the same no point in early ybs unless you go on the dark or want to have them
Sexually mature to race to the opposite sex
if you breed early here and don’t do the above you not really going to do much good your better off with late March / April hatched
Trev wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:06 pm
Mine are shut up now until February/March, I was letting them out at the weekends just while I clean them out, but having lost 2 in 2 weeks they are now locked in.
I'm planning on splitting them up this year but will probably leave that until I've had my vet inspection in December. They will be paired up mid to late February, I don't want youngsters flying out much before April to limit the risk of losses to the Sparrow Hawk, my old birds will start going out again once they are paired up. It does mean that they are unlikely to be fully fit for the early races but I'll use those races to get them fit for the longer ones, which are the ones I'm really interested in.
In answer to your other question Dave, if it wasn't for the bloody hawk they would be on an open loft all through the winter too, whatever the weather.
I’m the same no point in early ybs unless you go on the dark or want to have them
Sexually mature to race to the opposite sex
if you breed early here and don’t do the above you not really going to do much good your better off with late March / April hatched
I do agree Neil and find the best youngsters for YB racing are those bred in April/May especially if raced natural. I will breed early but only because my young birds are bred from my Widowers and the only chance I get with my widowhood system is to breed early. They will still be kept on natural as I’m not interested in young bird racing or young bird results.
Back just enjoying club racing for the time being.
I pair up on Boxing Day Neil. One of the very few days during the year that I have the chance to spend any time with the birds. Our shop is only closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day.
I pair them up and let them sit and rear the youngsters until about 14 days old. The hens are then removed so that there is no chance of them going back down on eggs again and the cocks left to finish rearing the youngsters with the youngsters weaned at 21 days. They then stay separated then until about a month before the first race when they are re-paired, and because they were paired earlier in the year the hens should all lay within 2 days of each other. They are allowed to sit for 10 days during which if the weather is ok the cocks may get 2 or 3 short tosses as this is when the hens will still be in the loft and the only tosses the cocks will get. The hens are then removed and the cocks left to sit the eggs until they leave them, usually only a couple of days. All bowls are then removed and the cocks are on widowhood and exercised twice a day.
Back just enjoying club racing for the time being.
Andy wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2024 9:10 am
I pair up on Boxing Day Neil. One of the very few days during the year that I have the chance to spend any time with the birds. Our shop is only closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day.
I pair them up and let them sit and rear the youngsters until about 14 days old. The hens are then removed so that there is no chance of them going back down on eggs again and the cocks left to finish rearing the youngsters with the youngsters weaned at 21 days. They then stay separated then until about a month before the first race when they are re-paired, and because they were paired earlier in the year the hens should all lay within 2 days of each other. They are allowed to sit for 10 days during which if the weather is ok the cocks may get 2 or 3 short tosses as this is when the hens will still be in the loft and the only tosses the cocks will get. The hens are then removed and the cocks left to sit the eggs until they leave them, usually only a couple of days. All bowls are then removed and the cocks are on widowhood and exercised twice a day.
If that’s your only day your closed I can understand you going so early I pair about 3-4 weeks after I don’t bother to pair mine up again
I just pick 2/3 weekends to leave the hens in and try to train 10 miles twice a day I basket just showing the bowl then they come home to the hens I give them a couple of hours and go training again then remove the hens about a hour later then do the same the next day if I can
I try to do that over 3 weekends it doesn’t always go to plan with the weather at that time if a year
I have even gone 7-8 miles 3 times in a day
I hate putting the hens in and out so try to do it the less I can
Trev wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:06 pm
Mine are shut up now until February/March, I was letting them out at the weekends just while I clean them out, but having lost 2 in 2 weeks they are now locked in.
I'm planning on splitting them up this year but will probably leave that until I've had my vet inspection in December. They will be paired up mid to late February, I don't want youngsters flying out much before April to limit the risk of losses to the Sparrow Hawk, my old birds will start going out again once they are paired up. It does mean that they are unlikely to be fully fit for the early races but I'll use those races to get them fit for the longer ones, which are the ones I'm really interested in.
In answer to your other question Dave, if it wasn't for the bloody hawk they would be on an open loft all through the winter too, whatever the weather.
I’m the same no point in early ybs unless you go on the dark or want to have them
Sexually mature to race to the opposite sex
if you breed early here and don’t do the above you not really going to do much good your better off with late March / April hatched
I do agree Neil and find the best youngsters for YB racing are those bred in April/May especially if raced natural. I will breed early but only because my young birds are bred from my Widowers and the only chance I get with my widowhood system is to breed early. They will still be kept on natural as I’m not interested in young bird racing or young bird results.
April/May go all the way
Sadies Lofts home of decent birds just a useless loft manager, and now a confirmed loser but proud
Andy wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2024 9:10 am
I pair up on Boxing Day Neil. One of the very few days during the year that I have the chance to spend any time with the birds. Our shop is only closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day.
I pair them up and let them sit and rear the youngsters until about 14 days old. The hens are then removed so that there is no chance of them going back down on eggs again and the cocks left to finish rearing the youngsters with the youngsters weaned at 21 days. They then stay separated then until about a month before the first race when they are re-paired, and because they were paired earlier in the year the hens should all lay within 2 days of each other. They are allowed to sit for 10 days during which if the weather is ok the cocks may get 2 or 3 short tosses as this is when the hens will still be in the loft and the only tosses the cocks will get. The hens are then removed and the cocks left to sit the eggs until they leave them, usually only a couple of days. All bowls are then removed and the cocks are on widowhood and exercised twice a day.
If that’s your only day your closed I can understand you going so early I pair about 3-4 weeks after I don’t bother to pair mine up again
I just pick 2/3 weekends to leave the hens in and try to train 10 miles twice a day I basket just showing the bowl then they come home to the hens I give them a couple of hours and go training again then remove the hens about a hour later then do the same the next day if I can
I try to do that over 3 weekends it doesn’t always go to plan with the weather at that time if a year
I have even gone 7-8 miles 3 times in a day
I hate putting the hens in and out so try to do it the less I can
Once my cocks go into the widowhood loft the only time they see the basket is when a hen is in the loft waiting. That’s why I do their only training while sitting the second round of eggs. I agree that putting hens in and out is a faff.
Back just enjoying club racing for the time being.
