Yes please, can I ask how do you bring your stock birds into condition for breeding.
A genuine question since I've had my new loft. The race birds are going out everyday and are in amazing nic but the stock birds all seem healthy but no where near the condition of the race birds.
Ps, I plan to put them together around the middle of Feb so still got time.
How best to get stock birds in the best condition for breeding
Dave, you answered your own question.
Pigeons that are captive are always stressed and will never produce the same quality of young birds as those that have freedom every day.
If you have any doubts about that, ask me how I know.
Pigeons that are captive are always stressed and will never produce the same quality of young birds as those that have freedom every day.
If you have any doubts about that, ask me how I know.
Greetings from the land down under. 
Blessed is he who expecteth nothing, for verily, he shall not be disappointed.

Blessed is he who expecteth nothing, for verily, he shall not be disappointed.
Have you wormed them at all Dave ?Diamond Dave wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 7:47 am Yes please, can I ask how do you bring your stock birds into condition for breeding.
A genuine question since I've had my new loft. The race birds are going out everyday and are in amazing nic but the stock birds all seem healthy but no where near the condition of the race birds.
Ps, I plan to put them together around the middle of Feb so still got time.
Mine are in 90 percent barley with a little seed there looking well
I don’t think going out is the answer as my race cocks have been in since August and they also look decent
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Not wormed any of them yet Neil. Not the racers either.
I want to underlay the racers with eggs from the stock birds and I want to take a few off the racers as well just so that they
have an affinity to their new nest boxes.
I want to underlay the racers with eggs from the stock birds and I want to take a few off the racers as well just so that they
have an affinity to their new nest boxes.
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Interesting Murray, ok - how dya know?
But if that is the case, why does everyone breed sub-standard young birds from their stock?
Sometimes I think worms can put the pigeons in poor condition but it may not be in your case of courseDiamond Dave wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 10:53 am Not wormed any of them yet Neil. Not the racers either.
I want to underlay the racers with eggs from the stock birds and I want to take a few off the racers as well just so that they
have an affinity to their new nest boxes.
I would worm them 12-14 days apart with moxidectin anyway
When you say not the same as the racers do you mean in poor feather or dry feather or a bit hunched
Do they get any sun light when we get any that is
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What i have been taught by many fanciers over here in germany and been doing myself for the past 2 years now isDiamond Dave wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 7:47 am Yes please, can I ask how do you bring your stock birds into condition for breeding.
A genuine question since I've had my new loft. The race birds are going out everyday and are in amazing nic but the stock birds all seem healthy but no where near the condition of the race birds.
Ps, I plan to put them together around the middle of Feb so still got time.
First we vaccinate the breeding hen's with Rotavirus about 4 weeks before Coupling because then the antibodies it gives into the egg is increased (about 30% of the antibodies of the hen goes into the egg)
Then we turn on the light inside the loft until about 9-10pm to stimulate the brain and get the pigeon out of its "Winter mode"
Lastly 1-2 weeks before coupling we give both the Breeding hen's and cock's Vitamin E-50 from Rohnfried which is also very good for breeding and breeding preperation.
And ofcourse grit everyday.
This is our preperation in the winter since we already start coupling around the 10th of december. Preferably i would like to also add a heating pad into my breeding loft for them to get into form even faster for breeding but thats something for the future.
Not sure if most people would agree with our method because alot of people seem pretty careful about giving products to the pigeon or playing around with Light and Dark. But this works for us and we never had any issues coupling our birds or breeding even in the winter time when it gets down to -10c ~
Agree Leon when I use to breed early I used lights 6am to 10pm and never had a issue I never had heat though I use to place polystyrene about 2-3cm thick under my bowls I don’t know if it helped
That’s was many years ago now I can’t be bothered so breed later as my work is much different now and time in the week is limited
I think Dave means more that his stock lack condition though when compared to his race team I can only think worming and maybe sunlight unless a sample is tested by a expert
That’s was many years ago now I can’t be bothered so breed later as my work is much different now and time in the week is limited
I think Dave means more that his stock lack condition though when compared to his race team I can only think worming and maybe sunlight unless a sample is tested by a expert
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Think the sunlight thing is always gonna be a bit of a problem Neil as the loft faces North and is under trees. They do have a bia bit of a flight tho. 6ft x 6ft which is open on 2 sides and has a polycarb roof which they use as they want.NeilA wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 11:01 am [quote="Diamond Dave" post_id=35112 l
Sometimes I think worms can put the pigeons in poor condition but it may not be in your case of course
I would worm them 12-14 days apart with moxidectin anyway
When you say not the same as the racers do you mean in poor feather or dry feather or a bit hunched
Do they get any sun light when we get any that is
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying they are in poor condition, just not as good as the racers who are just "shining" at the moment.
Maybe I'm just not used to seeing in this condition at this time of year.